Little-known fact: In the spring of 1871 John Muir hosted Ralph Waldo Emerson in Yosemite Valley. Unfortunately, the Yankee transcendentalist's fussy handlers forbade their guy from joining Muir on a backcountry trip. To this Muir replied with his characteristic candor, "Never mind [them]. The mountains are calling. . . . Up there lies a new heaven and a new earth. Let us go to the show." Muir's exhortation remains sound advice. Yosemite is not a drive-in park. The valley is astounding, granted, but most of the wonders—the granite towers, the glacial tarns and spangled meadows—are up in the High Sierra. That's where the real show begins.

GAME PLAN: No single hike can stand in for all the glories of Yosemite's backcountry, but a 27-mile loop in the lightly traveled northwest corner of the park comes close. The trek begins at Hetch Hetchy, a valley once dear to Muir but now partially submerged by a reservoir. To start, take the Wapama Trail east along the north shore. All that's visible of the valley today is soaring granite to either side, punctuated by two waterfalls, Tueeulala and 1,300-foot Wapama (each will spritz you as you pass). Pitch camp 6.5 miles in at the edge of rushing Rancheria Creek. The next day, proceed through Tiltill Valley's open meadows and switchback up into the high country to Lake Vernon, tucked in a tight-walled cirque. Plan on staying a day or two to scramble up nearby Mount Gibson (8,412 feet) and hike through Jack Main Canyon for views of shimmering backcountry tarns and streams. Finally, head southeast through lodgepole pines to a wildflower show at Beehive Meadow before zigzagging back down to Hetch Hetchy.

ULTIMATE BASE CAMP: Those in the know bed down just outside the park at Evergreen Lodge near the quiet, and often overlooked, Hetch Hetchy area. The retreat has freestanding cedar cabins, a friendly vibe, good food, and offers guided hikes, biking, and fishing in the park (lodge closed in January; $99; evergreenlodge.com).

VITALS: Backcountry permits, $5 in advance or free in person one day before departure. Permits and bear canisters (required) are available year-round at Hetch Hetchy Entrance Station and seasonally at staffed wilderness and visitor centers. Seven-day entry permit, $20. Campsites, from $5 per person per night (nps.gov/yose).

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