For all its notoriety, Yosemite eludes most visitors. Problem is, they spend all their time looking up and none looking down. The Valley aside (a big aside, granted), Yosemite contains some of the most spectacular terrain in the Sierra Nevada. It's the ultimate high country, complete with granite domes, knife-blade ridges, and alpine meadows. So make that mandatory Valley pilgrimage and stare up at the waterfalls and Half Dome. But keep in mind you're seeing less than one percent of the park. Imagine what the other 99 has to offer.

GAME PLAN: Here's a novel concept for backpackers: Leave the 50-pound bag at home. Guests at the High Sierra Camps can hike some of Yosemite's best high-country trails with little more than a daypack. The five camps are strategically located around a 53-mile loop, and each boasts tent cabins, cots with blankets, and the all-important chuck wagon, which doles out breakfasts, dinners, and boxed trail lunches daily. Most hikers start from the Tuolumne Meadows Lodge and proceed counterclockwise along the circuit. The first day traces the Tuolumne River six miles through wildflower-strewn meadows to Glen Aulin camp. From there head eight miles south to May Lake. Then, it's up to you. Sunrise Camp is known for its morning views and its proximity to Matthes Crest, a favorite of technical climbers. Vogelsang Camp sits at the base of the granite hulk of Vogelsang Peak, a challenging but nontechnical hike. Reservations can fill a year in advance. If you get skunked, the camps welcome backpackers with their own tents and will prepare meals if you call several weeks ahead.

Vitals: Reservations at the High Sierra Camps are handled by DNC Parks and Resorts (doubles from $153, including breakfast and dinner; lunch is an extra $14 a day; yosemitepark.com).

The Must-Do: Hit Vernal Fall, 1.5 miles up the Mist Trail. The 317-foot plume refracts concentric rainbows, and if you hike above it you’ll reach Emerald Pool then Silver Apron, where the Merced River flows off a granite dome.

Base Camp: Set at the foot of the Royal Arches cliffs, the Ahwahnee Hotel is the iconic national park lodge. The views of Glacier Point and Yosemite Falls from its great room are jaw-dropping. Tip: Book a cottage instead of a lodge room. Same price, more privacy (doubles from $449; yosemitepark.com).

BONUS QUIZ: Think you know Yosemite? Test yourself with this quiz.