A great surf town is the nearly magical sum of consistent waves, inviting accommodations, friendly locals, fun nightlife, delicious food, and plenty of activities should the ocean go flat. The following is a list of the world's best surf towns, picked not necessarily because they are home to the best waves, but because the sum of their parts makes them inviting for locals and visitors alike. Plus, for each town, locals tell us where to eat, stay, and play.—Tetsuhiko Endo
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Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaii
Photograph by Ross Warner, Alamy
Best For: Couples who want to enjoy unsurpassed natural beauty steeped in Polynesian culture and colonial history, from Captain Cook to the U.S. annexation of Hawaii
Hanalei Town sits on the North Shore of Kauai, one of the least developed and most beautiful islands in the Hawaiian chain. The local Hawaiians, or “Ka poe Hawaii,” maintain a strong sense of identity and connection to their Polynesian ancestry, making this the perfect place to catch some waves while learning about the long, and sometimes fraught, history of the 50th state.
The town is surrounded by diverse wave-riding spots, from the beginner-friendly waves of the Hanalei Pier (watch out for local kids jumping off the end) to expert-only reef breaks where experience and a healthy respect for the local pecking order are prerequisites. “There are many waves on the island that are not suitable for visitors,” says Evan Valiere, one of the many world-class surfers from this island (a list that also includes Bruce and the late Andy Irons). “But come with a good vibe and respectful attitude, and it will be a place that you will never forget.”
When
October to March
Learn
At Rent-a-Local Kauai, beginners can learn to surf and advanced surfers can get tips on riding heavy waves from a cadre of local Kauains, including Valiere, who teaches in the mornings and drops into 12-foot tubes over razor sharp coral in the afternoon (+1 808 635 3826).
Eat
According to Valiere, if you want to “grind” (local slang for “eating,” especially when you’re famished), head up the hill from Hanalei Town to the Kilauea Fish Market. “If you want a real local experience,” he says, “Go to the Hanalei Taro Company for a lau lau plate of chicken or pig. Lau lau is a steamed meat in a taro leaf.”
Play
Leave civilization behind and hike through the five valleys of the Napali Coast State Park.
Stay
Hanalei has a lot of big resorts, but why seclude yourself? Vacation rentals are often a better deal and help you experience the town.
Local Tip
Respect is an important term in surfing lineups all over Hawaii. If you bring a good attitude and a smile, you will get the same in return. Also, if you’re ever in doubt about where to surf, ask the lifeguards. They are among the friendliest and most experienced in the world.
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Tofino, British Columbia
Photograph by Jeremy Koreski, Getty Images
Best For: Couples and surf travelers who want to trade the bleached-blonde surfer dude vibe for something more hip and outdoorsy … and don’t mind wearing a bit of extra neoprene
California may be one of the surfing world’s spiritual centers, but one of the surfiest towns on the West Coast of North America is far to the north. Tofino, British Columbia, is an old fur trading and logging town that just happens to sit in one of the prettiest spots on Vancouver Island. Clayoquot Sound, compromised of nearly 350,000 hectares of land and ocean, is cool, misty, full of wildlife, and utterly spectacular. Although winters can be harsh, the spring and summer bring warmer air temperatures and almost nonstop markets, festivals, and cultural events.
“All of our beaches are beginner friendly, especially in the summer,” says local professional Peter Devries, a man who currently surfs better in head-to-toe neoprene than perhaps anyone in the world. “The huge tides flatten out the beaches and create very mellow beginner waves. There is the odd exception where the banks can change and get powerful and hollow, but there is always somewhere that is good for beginners. South Chesterman Beach and Long Beach are great places to learn.”
When
March to September. Winter sees the biggest waves, if you don’t mind freezing air temps and raging storm surf. Everyone else will appreciate more warmth and sunlight in exchange for slightly smaller waves.
Learn
Tofino Surf School owner and operator Jeff Hasse is a local institution. Also, check out Storm Surf Shop for any of your surfing needs.
Stay
Just because you’re at the edge of a lot of wilderness doesn’t mean you have to rough it. Check out the rugged splendor of the Wickaninnish Inn.
Eat
“For a small town, Tofino is blessed with a lot of good food,” says Devries. “My favorite restaurant is called SoBo—everything on the menu is amazing!”
Play
Starting in March, gray whales migrate from Baja to their summer feeding grounds in the Bering Sea. It’s estimated that some 40 to 50 stay around the coast of Vancouver Island until around June. Hop in a whale-watching boat and pay your respects to one of the sea’s great migrations.
Local Tip
In the summer the sun rises at around 5 a.m. and doesn’t set until 9:30 p.m. You can surf early, eat breakfast, take a nap, and still manage a hike before lunch.
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Taghazout, Morocco
Photograph by Lawrence, A-Frame
Best For: Couples and serious surf adventurers who want to wander through the labyrinthine corridors of some of the world’s oldest cities and also catch the waves of their lives
Taghazout, Morocco, is a surfing oasis in the middle of a long, rugged coastline that is inundated with waves. This ancient Berber encampment became an outpost for European adventurers trekking into southern Morocco in the 1960s. And throughout that same period, surfers “discovered” the region and set up shop in Taghazout. Today, there are a lot of French and Spanish surfers mingling with the native Moroccans and Berbers in what still feels like a frontier town on the edge of the desert. The waves are almost always long-period ground swells—which means great shape and plenty of power—and the winds consistently blow offshore.
Beginners should start at beaches like Panoramas or Crocodiles and work their way up to the point breaks, which are considered among the best in the world. To sample the crème de la crème, go for a surf at Anchor Point or Killer Point and learn why surfers often describe the waves there as “freight trains.”
When
Year-round
Learn
Surf Rider Camp is run by one of Morocco’s best surfers, Yassine Ramdani. All ages are welcome in private and group lessons (Telephone: +34 679 070 327).
Eat/Drink
“Don’t leave without trying a tagine, a traditional stew cooked in a large clay pot,” says Ramdani. “You can get great traditional food at Cafe Florida.”
Stay
Located on the water’s edge, Surf Maroc’s Taghazout Villa is a surfing clubhouse and outfitter for anything you might want to do in Taghazout and the surrounding environs.
Play
Head in to Agadir’s central market, Souk El Had, to pick up bottles of argan oil, a locally grown panacea that is said to be good for everything from cooking to hair conditioning. Or treat yourself to a hammam, a local tradition of Turkish-style steam bathing.
Local Tip
If you go exploring for waves, which you should, 4WD and plenty of water are necessary.
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Encinitas, California
Photograph by Billy Watts, A-frame
Best For: The whole family can enjoy Southern California’s signature blend of classic American beach culture with a refreshing Mexican twist.
No area of the United States says “surfing” quite like Southern California; and no SoCal town is quite as surfy as Encinitas. It’s an easygoing mix of West Coast counterculture—from skaters and snowboarders to surfers—and New Age spiritualists. Aside from having some of the oldest and most well-respected surf shops in the country, it is also the home of La Paloma Theatre, which in its 84-year history has premiered countless surf films.
For a few waves to yourself, cruise down to Moonlight Beach, which supports a wide range of surfers, from beginners on its central sandbars to more advanced surfers at its north and south ends. “I love the energy of Encinitas,” says local surfer and body surfing guru Ed Lewis, who has opened the world of body surfing to a much larger audience through the shaping of handplanes. “As you drive up the freeway, you can feel the energy of it,” he says. “It has everything you could ask for: culture, great food, spirituality, great surf spots, a long history of surfing, surfers and shapers—and the people are friendly and happy.”
When
Autumn sees a high percentage of north and south and north/south combination swells rolling in with favorable wind conditions and comfortable water temperatures.
Learn
SoCal beach boys are half the reason America fell in love with surfing. Take a lesson from them at Leucadia Surf School to see why.
Eat/Drink
According to Lewis, for a post-surf feast grab lunch at Mozy or Swami’s cafés. A nice dinner can be had at Roxy’s, where the falafel burger and their old-fashioned ice cream bar are local traditions. Afterwards, either catch a movie at La Paloma or get a drink at the other Encinitas institution, the Daley Double Saloon.
Stay
“If you want to do it right, rent one of the houses on the bluff,” says Lewis.
Play
Lewis recommends a trip to the Meditation Gardens at the Encinitas Self-Realization Fellowship. Not only can you find a slice of inner peace, you can see the famous, experts-only reef break called Swami’s from the bluff. If the outer world is more important to you than your inner one, take a studio tour with local eco-artist Rodney McCoubrey.
Local Tip
Encinitas is one of the few places in the world where traffic will voluntarily stop for you when you cross the road. Don’t ask questions, just give the driver a wave and go about your business.
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Bundoran, Ireland
Photograph by Niall Carson, AP
Best For: The salty surf traveler who doesn’t mind surfing in cold water or rain
Ireland, known among surfers as “Europe’s cold-water Indonesia” should be on the bucket list of every surfer. And Bundoran should be the start of any surfing adventure on the Emerald Isle. This centuries-old fishing village catches just about any swell that steamrolls through the North Atlantic and onto a smattering of beaches and reefs that suit different levels of surfers.
The water may be cold, but the pubs and locals are always warm, serving up national specialties such as Guinness and oysters to the tune of traditional Irish music. “Bundoran is a town with many sides and the real Bundoran can only be found with the help of the locals,” says Pete Craig, surfer and owner of the outfitter Bundoran Surf Co. The main surfing beach is Tullan Strand, but if you want to venture out, ask locals about the surrounding reefs and beaches, which work on a variety of swells.
When
Go September to November, when the water is warm(ish), the tourists have gone home, and the Atlantic is pumping.
Eat/Drink
“The Bridge Bar is a rite of passage for most surfers,” says Craig. Situated overlooking the Peak—Ireland’s most famous reef break—the Bridge is a unique mix of old-school Ireland and surf culture, always with a warm welcome and cold beer. "It’s a great place to meet locals, surfers, and musicians. If you feel like hearing a live band, go to the Chasing Bull."
Stay
A good budget option is to get a room with the Bundoran Surf Co., where you can meet other surfers and plan trips up and down the coast. For a higher-end stay, opt for an ocean-view room at Fitzgerald’s Hotel.
Other Adventures
Take a day trip to Slieve League, an area of sea cliffs that are some of the most breathtaking in Ireland. Closer to Bundoran, Craig recommends the Donegal Craft Village “for arty folk” or even just rambling through Donegal County. “Just driving around Donegal, you get a feel for the old Ireland that hasn’t been packaged for tourists yet.”
Local Tip
If you buy a round for the locals, which you should, expect to be drinking for the rest of the night.
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Florianópolis, Brazil
Photograph by Chris Schmid, Eyemage Media/Alamy
Best For: Young people looking to burn the candle at both ends
With 4,655 miles of coastline and an increasingly surf-crazy populace, Brazil is poised to become the next great epicenter of global surf culture. Nowhere is this better exemplified than Brazil’s island capital of surfing, Florianópolis, or Floripa, as the locals prefer. There are 42 different beaches to suit all surfing tastes, from the novice-friendly Barra Da Lagoa to the heavier Joaquina Beach, where they sometimes hold professional surfing competitions. The only thing more consistent than the Southern Hemisphere swells is the nightlife. Expect to surf a lot of afternoons, because the parties go late.
When
This part of Brazil receives year-round swell, but it averages slightly smaller in the summer (November to February).
Learn
Nexus Surf offers equipment rental and lessons with lead instructor Ernesto Hecker, a local with extensive international experience in surf instruction.
Eat/Drink
“A simple but awesome locals’ favorite is Cirrus,” says Nexus Surf managing director and Floripa transplant Hans Keeling. “It serves a great buffet of home-style, fresh, organic foods on a ‘pay per kilo’ basis, along with fresh-squeezed juices—all at super-reasonable prices.” The atmosphere is completed by the local surfer crowd that frequents the restaurant to recount the best waves of the day while nonstop surf videos play on TVs in the background.
When the sun goes down, head to Confraria Club, a local hot spot for traveling DJs and live shows. After winning his seventh ASP World Title in 2005, Kelly Slater even took the stage here to strum a few songs on the guitar. “Confraria definitely does not disappoint in terms of beautiful people but still manages to maintain a relaxed, chill vibe consistent with Floripa's surf culture and roots,” according to Keeling.
Stay
Rent a villa or beach house through Floripa Vacation Homes.
Play
If you get tired of the coastal heat, head to the highlands of Santa Catarina in São Joaquim National Park.
Local Tip
The winds are highly variable and can quickly turn from swell-grooming offshores (blowing from the land) to wave destroying onshores (blowing from sea). The good news is that the coastline is very craggy, meaning there is always a beach positioned for favorable winds if you know where to look.
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Byron Bay, Australia
Photograph by Gerald Haenel, laif/Redux
Best For: Families. Australia is a once-in-a-lifetime trip, and Byron Bay and the rest of the country will enchant all age groups.
In an entire continent of surf towns, Byron Bay stands out as one of the spiritual and historical homes of surfing in what is, pound for pound, perhaps the greatest surfing nation in the world. Despite a tendency toward the upscale, Byron is at heart a hippie town that favors live bands, relaxed cafes that source local ingredients, and plenty of “all natural” everything. Combine that with the naturally cheerful disposition of many Aussies and you won’t find better waves in a more pleasant setting anywhere in the world.
The town’s main wave, the Pass, is a classic right-hand point break that accommodates all levels of surfers, though it can get crowded on good swells. Beginners should stay on the beach and more advanced surfers can head south to Broken Head, which has great beach breaks and other classic points.
When
June to September. The Southern Hemisphere winter barely touches Byron, with only a slight chill in the mornings and mild-to-warm temperatures during the day. The swell pumps the whole time.
Learn
Itinerant pro surfer and Byron resident Dion Agius recommends Bay Beach Hire & Travel as “the best surf school in town and the best way to get amongst the waves with qualified instructors.”
Eat/Drink
A contemporary restaurant called Italian at the Pacific is Agius’s favorite. “It’s great for dinner and drinks with friends,” he says. “It’s right on the beach in the heart of town, with an amazing menu and even better cocktails—especially the coconut chili martinis and the Amaretto sours.”
Stay
At the Beach Hotel, check out the surf from your room and the live music and locally brewed beers on tap.
Play
A two-hour drive into the hinterland puts you into the heart of Queensland’s Gondwana forests, which are remnants of prehistoric rain forests that look like something out of Jurassic Park, complete with giant monitor lizards and all types of marsupials.
Local Tip
Surfing points comes with important rules of etiquette. All you really need to remember is to wait your turn and be patient. You won’t get as many waves as you would at a beach but can easily get the best wave of your life.
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Biarritz, France
Photograph by Damien Poullenot, Getty Images
Best For: The discerning surfer who insists that the wine be just as good as the waves
Biarritz is the only surf town in the world with a royal history. In 1854, Empress Eugénie convinced her husband, Napoleon III, to visit the area. They then bought the land and built a palace on the beach, which made Biarritz one of the hottest resort towns in Europe. Screenwriter Peter Viertel brought France its first surfboard in 1956, when he came to shoot location shots for The Sun Also Rises.
Still considered the birthplace of European surfing, Biarritz is a nice combination of French high culture and SoCal surf culture, putting a decidedly surfy spin on the notion of joie de vivre. Start surfing on La Grande Plage (the Big Beach) in front of the town center. If it gets too crowded, local Cape Breton transplant David Hanguehard recommends checking out surrounding beaches such as La Côtes des Basques, Anglet, and Guethary.
When
September to November. Beat the summer crowds and catch the best swells that the Atlantic can offer.
Learn
Eat/Drink
Les 100 Marches, a chic café where you can have champagne with your post-surf baguette
Stay
The Hôtel du Palais is Empress Eugénie’s old palace retrofitted as a hotel. If you come to Biarritz, you might as well get the royal treatment.
Play
If you want to get away from the high-end vibe, check out surrounding villages such as Ahetze and Espelette for a taste of small-town Basque France.
Local Tip
Many of the surf shops only sell clothes. Make sure to come prepared.
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Shonan, Japan
Photograph by Taro Hama, flickr/Getty Images
Best For: The intrepid surf traveler who wants to experience the culinary and cultural delights of the Far East while learning about a new and vibrant surfing culture
When you think of wave-rich Pacific islands, Japan doesn’t immediately jump to mind. It doesn’t have the consistency of Hawaii or the death-defying reef breaks of Tahiti. But its west coast is home to hundreds of miles of dark-sand beaches, and its craggy coastline hides reefs, points, and river mouths for all level of surfers.
“My hometown, Shonan, is the birthplace of Japanese surfing,” says professional big-wave surfer Takayuki Wakita. “Like many Japanese seaside towns, it started out as a fishing town. But now it’s one of the capitals of surfing for the entire country because the waves are good and it’s only an hour away from Tokyo.” The change started in 1955, when the Japanese author Shintaro Ishihara published Season of the Sun, about a group of Japanese teenagers living in rich hedonism on the sands of Shonan. While it didn’t describe any surfers, Wakita’s forefathers started riding waves soon after. Don’t expect fish tacos and English surf slang in Shonan. Do expect hundred-year-old temples, local festivals, and scenery right out of a Hokusai wood-block print.
When
From August to October, typhoon swells light up Japan’s coastline. For more gentle waves and better sightseeing, go between March and June.
Learn
Sylphide Surfing and Wind Surf School: Wakita’s father has been running a surf shop and school since the seventies. It’s one of the best and most established in Shonan. tel: +81 (0) 466 22 2511
Eat
Oden is a Japanese specialty stew that contains various types of fish cakes, and there is no better elixir to warm you after a dip in the Pacific. Wakita advises that travelers head to the Oden Center, in front of Tsujido Beach, and sample the stews offered by the various restaurants and street stands.
Stay
Iwamoto-ro, the ryokan, or Japanese-style inn, on Enoshima Island offers some of the best views of Mount Fuji in the region, as well as fresh, local cuisine.
Play
The Hachiman shrine is dedicated to the patron god of Samurai and is one of the largest and most historically important in the area. If you go between the second and third Sundays of April, you can experience the unforgettable Kamakura festival showcasing traditional dances, samurai skills such as archery and sword fighting, and a perennial Japanese favorite, the light pink blossoms of the cherry trees.
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Muizenberg, South Africa
Photograph by Nic Bothma, EPA/Corbis
Best For: Beginner surfers looking for a safe and inviting environment to get their toes wet in the world of surfing
Located in a country known for cold water, heavy waves, and sharks, Muizenberg, South Africa, is an oasis of gentle rollers, friendly locals, and beachside cafes. And don’t forget about the local wine. “Muizenberg is the best ‘learn to surf’ beach in the world,” says Tim Conibear, founder of Isiqalo, a Cape Town organization that teaches kids from low-income neighborhoods to surf. “The attitude in the water is also super-mellow, with a general acceptance of all watercrafts and abilities. Shark spotters keep you safe, so you don't need to worry. For heavier waves, take a walk toward Kalk Bay, where there's a serious reef. Danger Reef is also a little left-breaking wave that's worth a stop.”
When
South Africa receives year-round swell.
Learn
“The guys at Lifestyle Surf Shop have everything a surfer needs,” says Conibear. “They make their own boards, do rentals for boards and wetsuits, and have surf apparel for the hardcore surfer and the groupies. They also do lessons and phone-in surf reports. They literally do it all.”
Eat/Drink
Kalk Bay is known for its nightlife and food, especially Olympia Café, which Conibear describes as “a must.”
Stay
The Chartfield Guesthouse in neighboring Kalk Bay has great ocean views and is a short walk to restaurants and bars.
Play
Head to Table Mountain National Park for unparalleled views, or spend a day volunteering with Isiqalo.
Local Tip
The air temperatures may be hotter in the South African summer, but the water temperatures can be colder. Make sure to bring or rent the right wetsuit before you get in the water.
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La Paloma, Uruguay
Photograph by D.J. Struntz, A-frame
Best For: The surf traveler looking to step off the beaten track and experience a new culture. The waves may or may not be epic, but you will never forget Uruguay.
Uruguayos prefer to fly below the radar, which is why you probably didn’t know that their Atlantic coastline is one of the most pristine and beautiful in the Americas. Although famous resort towns such as Punta del Este have long been a haven for Argentine and European travelers, the rest of the coastline is reserved for locals. La Paloma is a dusty little beach town where Uruguayans go to surf, drink maté tea, and grill large hunks of grass-fed beef over open flames. “It’s an enchanting little town where everyone is friendly,” says Uruguay’s best professional surfer Marco Giorgi. “One of the best parts is that it has surf spots for all levels of rider. And regardless of which way the wind is blowing, it’s almost always surfable somewhere.”
When
The Southern Hemisphere summer (November to February) sees smaller waves, but La Paloma buzzes with Uruguayan beachgoers and live music shows.
Learn
Visit the Peteco surf shop and ask about the Escuela de Surfing. It’s run by the Vázques family, a father-son duo who take care of visiting surfers.
Stay
Locals prefer beach cabanas or cabins, but luxury accommodation for less, like the Zen Boutique Apart Hotel, are also great options. Something to suit any taste can be found at: http://www.reservas.net/alojamiento_hoteles/lapaloma_hotels_uruguay.htm.
Eat/Drink
Restaurante Punto Sur is located on the sand and has a great mix of seafood and local meat fresh off the parilla (grill).
Play
Cabo Polonio is a beach community with fewer than 100 residents, not counting the sea lion colony. Head over for a day trip and you may not want to leave.
Local Tip
Southerly storms can turn the water temperature from warm to frigid overnight. Bring a wetsuit, just in case. Also, there are some 80 surf spots in a scant 125 miles of coastline. If you can’t find surf in La Paloma, head north to La Pedrera or Punta del Diablo.
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Montauk, New York
Photograph by Ball and Albanese, Alamy
Best For: Couples and young people who are looking for surf, sun, and laid-back parties in the social shadow of New York City
Montauk used to be one of the East Coast surf scene’s best kept secrets—a place where Northeastern surfers could escape the coastal crush, surf a variety of great waves by day, and drink with salty sea dog fishermen at night. Since the Hamptons jet set has started to move in, things have changed a bit, but thankfully, Montauk remains a sleepy fishing town at the end of the Long Island Rail Road line—with just enough glamour from New York City to keep things interesting. With the exception of Biarritz, France, there is no other surf town in the world where you can surf great waves all day and rub shoulders with movie stars on patio bars at night. When hurricanes or the much-loved nor’easter storm systems batter the coast, there is no better place on the Eastern seaboard for a surfer.
When
June to November for hurricane season; June to August for socialite season
Learn
Air and Speed Surf Shop, run by Stuart Foley and his family, is a one-stop shop for anything you might need, including lessons taught by Stu and his sons.
Eat/Drink
According to Montauk local and longtime surfing journalist Russell Drum, if you want a hip option for your post-surf brunch, check out Ruschmeyer’s. For after-hours entertainment, go to the Surf Lodge. If you want to avoid what locals call “the scene,” have a quiet pint at O’Murphy’s Pub & Restaurant.
Stay
If you want to be close to the waves, you can do no better than the East Deck Motel. For a more upscale affair, try Solé East Resort.
Play
Montauk is close to five state parks, including Camp Hero and Hither Hills, that offer hiking, biking, surfing, fishing, and horseback riding.
Local Tip
There are plenty of places to rent stand-up paddleboards and plenty of places to enjoy using them around Montauk. The crowded surf lineup is not one of them.
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Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina
Photograph by Logan Mock-Bunting, Aurora
Best For: The whole family can enjoy Wrightsville’s trademark mix of sleepy southern beach town and growing metropolis. Think catfish with caviar or barbecue with Beaujolais.
Wrightsville Beach is a small town tucked away between the salt marshes, sandy barrier islands, and old wooden piers of the American southeast. “It’s a great surf town for two main reasons—attitude and access,” says Mike Barden, a native and owner of the seminal East Coast surf shop Surf City Surf Shop, which has been in business since 1978. “We have a pretty laid-back, understanding attitude. You don’t ever really get vibed here. You can just show up and surf, which is something that you can’t always do in big surf towns, such as Huntington Beach, or even some towns on the East Coast.”
When
August to October. Late summer is hurricane season and offers warm weather with consistently above-average surf.
Learn
WB Surf Camp offers lessons and camps for kids, teens, adults, families, and women-only groups.
Eat/Drink
You can’t go to the southeast without trying flounder and oysters. Barden recommends King Neptune Restaurant’s grilled flounder sandwich.
Stay
Vacation rentals overlooking the beach are the way to go.
Play
The southeast is a hotbed of stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), and Wrightsville has one of the most popular loops in the region—the four-mile, flat-water Harbor Island Outer Loop. SUP rentals are available at Surf City. For a more sedentary time, charter a fishing boat from Philip Thompson at AUI Charters, or take the kids out with Stuart Caulder at Gold Leader Fishing.
Local Tip
The best swells, nor’easters, often come with strong winds and currents. Wait for them to pass then snag an early morning cleanup session the day after, when conditions are usually the best.
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New Smyrna Beach, Florida
Photograph by David Tucker, Daytona Beach News-Journal/AP
Best For: Anyone whose idea of a good vacation is never leaving the beach
What do you get when you combine 13 miles of beach, 300 surfable days a year, warm water, and great fishing? The laid-back center of high-performance surfing known as New Smyrna Beach. The seasonal tourist center is famous for its consistency and for its steep, wedging waves that break near its inlet. They offer perfect ramps for aspiring East Coast professionals and hot local talent to do all manner of trickery.
Visitors should take advantage of the less crowded parts of the beach away from the inlet, including highlights like Sapphire Road, 27th Avenue, and Mary McLeod Bethune Beach Park. If you feel like getting schooled by some of the best surfers on the East Coast, head down to the inlet when a northeast swell is tearing in off the Atlantic, crack open a beverage, and watch the local guys soar above the lips of waves.
When
It’s difficult to not get some waves at New Smyrna Beach, but keep in mind that it is a spring break capital for many colleges. Unless you want to share the beach with nonstop frat and sorority parties, make sure you check the semester dates of the schools in Orlando.
Learn
Surfin’ NSB’s Lindsey Baldwin, pro-surfer, owner, and lead instructor, will teach you anywhere on the beach. All of her instructors have at least 15 years of surfing experience and five years of teaching experience.
Eat/Drink
“You can literally walk straight out of the water onto the beachfront deck at Toni & Joe's,” says Baldwin. “The food is excellent, and they have a full bar and live entertainment Thursday to Sunday.”
Stay
Book a room in beachfront hotels, such as the Sea Vista and Island Beach Resort. Baldwin recommends a condo for stays longer than a few days.
Play
Spend a long afternoon at JB’s Fishcamp, located next door to the Canaveral National Seashore Park. Not only can you get good food and cocktails, but you can also rent a kayak or find a fishing guide and make your way around the creeks and estuaries of the inland waterway.
Local Tip
If you don’t drop a hook and line at some point while in New Smyrna Beach, you will miss out on one of the town’s great pastimes. Just remember that you need a Florida state fishing license to do so.
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Santa Cruz, California
Photograph by Eros Hoagland, Redux
Best For: Santa Cruz is the field trip that all students of surfing, young and old, should take once in their lives.
Santa Cruz is a little town with a long surfing history. Its marquee spot, Steamer Lane, was a proving ground for aspiring West Coast big-wave riders in the 1950s. Men like Peter Cole, Ricky Grigg, and the Van Dyke brothers rode giant winter swells here on wooden longboards—sans leashes and wetsuits—in order to practice for the even more powerful waves of Hawaii. It was this penchant for wintertime surfing that lead Jack O’Neill, who lost an eye in an accident at the Lane, to develop the modern surfing wetsuit.
You don’t have to brave ship-capsizing surf or risk either of your eyes to enjoy Santa Cruz. Tucked between sea cliffs and redwood forests, this NorCal gem boasts a fantastic surfing museum and 11 surf spots, including the Californian classic, Pleasure Point.
When
September to May
Learn
Surf School Santa Cruz: Owner and pro surfer Bud Freitas is part of the current generation of world-renowned Santa Cruz surfers.
Eat
After a long surf session at Pleasure Point, Freitas says there is nothing better than a slice or two from Pleasure Pizza, a Santa Cruz institution since 1975.
Stay
The West Cliff Inn has ocean-view rooms within spitting distance of Pleasure Point.
Play
Check out the Surfing Museum, take a day trip to San Francisco, or go hike in the 80 miles of trails that wind through 1,000- to 2,000-year-old redwood forests in Big Basin Redwood State Park.
Local Tip
“It’s not about where you surf, it’s more about the mentality you come with,” says Freitas, commenting on the fearsome reputation of NorCal surfers. “If you want to get waves, be respectful, don’t go rushing out there and thinking you are on every wave. Just take your time, have fun, and be aware of the people around you.” Also, remember that it’s called Steamer Lane, not Steamer’s Lane.
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San Sebastián, Spain
Photograph by Ian McDonnell, Getty Images
Best For: Couples who want to spend nights enjoying the bars and world-class restaurants in one of the most romantic small cities in Europe and afternoons surfing off their hangovers
San Sebastián, or Donostia in the local language, is the cultural capital of Spain’s vibrant Basque country. Though not as renowned for waves as its northeastern neighbors in France, it more than makes up for it by being a center for music, cinema, and molecular gastronomy for all of Europe.
“Donostia is a marvelous place with a lot to offer both in and out of the water,” says local surfer and city tourism official Jokin Arroyo Uriarte. “It’s a small city where you can surf at Zurriola Beach then walk over to the old part of the city for a few pintxos (Basque referring to small portions like tapas), a couple glasses of beer, and an incredibly authentic ambiance. Apart from having one of the most beautiful bays in the world, Bahía de la Concha, the city has a love affair with surfing and tons of infrastructure for the visiting surfer.”
When
June to November. The waves are better in the fall, but the city hosts numerous excellent festivals in the summer, such as the Amstel Surfilm Festibal.
Learn
Zurriola Surf Eskola is San Sebastián’s newest surf school, with great equipment and a young, dedicated staff.
Eat/Drink
The old part of the city is filled with pintxo restaurants that double as bars. For a sit-down meal, head to the Michelin-rated Arzak, the restaurant of one of Europe’s greatest chefs, Juan Mari Arzak. Remember that most locals don’t eat dinner until around 10:00 p.m., and the real nightlife doesn’t get rolling until the wee hours.
Play
Hike up Mount Urgull for great views of the Bahía de la Concha, or visit a Sidrería, where the Basques make some of their famous hard ciders. For a longer excursion, head to the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao.
Local Tip
“Drop by the surf club and chat with some locals,” says Arroyo Uriarte. “If you’re lucky, someone might invite you to a private dinner in one of the gastronomic societies, which are temples of Basque gastronomy.” Also, remember that speaking a little Basque goes a long way: kaixo means “hello” and agur means “see you later.”
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Nosara, Costa Rica
Photograph by Rob Francis, Alamy
Best For: All surfers, from children getting their first taste of Pacific power to grizzled surf veterans tripping through Latin America in camper vans
In a wave-rich country, Nosara stands out as the surf town par excellence. Warm water, friendly locals, endless beaches, powerful river mouths, long point breaks, and virtually year-round high swells make it a veritable surfing Disneyland—without all the lines and overzealous parents. Located on the coast of a Blue Zone (a place where a large percentage of local people live to a hundred years old or more), Nosara offers the kind of lifestyle that most surfers only dream about. It is a perennial favorite among traveling surfers of all levels for both its waves and relaxed pace of life.
When
Costa Rica has two seasons, the dry (December to April) and the rainy (May to November). Surf-wise, the only differences during the dry season are larger crowds and smaller waves on average.
Learn
Safari Surf School offers lessons at Playa Guiones, a beach ideally suited to beginners, according to co-owner Tim Marsh. “The waves at Playa Guiones break about a hundred yards offshore and ‘roll’ all the way to the sand’s edge,” he says. “This is ideal so novices can feel comfy knowing we can take them waist-deep and get them on oncoming whitewater waves that roll to the beach.”
Eat/Drink
Just three minutes from the beach, the Casa Tucan offers great local specialties like fish and meat casados and doubles as a social hub for this small town. Stay around for a drink or two, then move to the KayaSol Surf Hotel for another round.
Stay
The Harmony Hotel offers a full spa experience while also being dedicated to sustainable development.
Play
Costa Rica is all about ecotourism, from river-rafting and bird-watching to rain-forest treks and turtle-spotting. Experience Nosara is your one-stop outfitter for anything you might want to see or do.
Local Tip
If you get tired of gentle rollers, head north to Playa Pelada for some volcanic reef action or to the Bocas del Nosara for heavy tubes. But don’t take the power of the waves for granted.
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Paia, Maui, Hawaii
Photograph by David Schrichte, Photo Resource Hawaii/Alamy
Best For: Families who want a laconic town that caters to every member without all the kitsch and hustle of the larger tourist centers
Most Hawaiian towns are surf towns, but none have the artsy, eccentric vibe of Paia on Maui’s North Shore. What started as a sugarcane boomtown is now a hangout for artists, surfers, and wind sport enthusiasts from around the world. Although not known as a surfing mecca like Oahu’s North Shore, partially due to the daily side-shore winds that shred the lineups most afternoons, this actually works in favor of visiting surfers, according to local pro surfer Zack Howard: “There are a lot of great surfers here, but in general, the level is lower than in places like Oahu, and that means there are a lot of waves for everyone.”
Novices should check out Paia Bay. If you want to rub shoulders with Maui’s elite, paddle out at Hookipa—just make sure your shoulders can handle a workout, as it doesn’t break close to shore. If you happen to be in town during a big winter swell, drive west down the Hana Highway and pull off between mile markers 13 and 14. From the bluff you can watch an international crew of big-wave hellmen tow into waves breaking over the outer reef known as Jaws.
When
November to March
Learn
At Zack Howard Surf, Howard personally offers private instruction all the way up through group lessons. He is a favorite of the kids. More experienced surfers can book him for a tour of some of the island's better surf spots.
Eat
“The Paia Fish Market makes the best ahi burgers on the island,” says Howard.
Stay
There are plenty of accommodation options in Paia, including the Paia Inn.
Play
Hike the waterfall-flecked Iao Valley State Park, home to the Iao Needle, one of Hawaii’s greatest landmarks. It’s also the site of the great battle of Kepaniwai, when King Kamehameha I fought Maui’s army in his endeavor to unite the Hawaiian Islands in 1790.
Local Tip
The trade winds are usually blowing strong by midday, so set your alarm clock early for the best waves.
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Raglan, New Zealand
Photograph by Paul Abbitt, Alamy
Best For: The whole family will love the plethora of outdoor activities, from surfing and mountain biking to whale-watching.
The surfing world first learned about Raglan, or Whaingaroa as it’s known in the local Maori language, when its empty, seemingly endless left-hand point breaks were featured in Bruce Brown’s seminal surfing film, The Endless Summer. Although you can expect more of a crowd in the lineup today than the Endless Summer boys encountered in 1966, the town itself is a throwback to the golden days of surfing, according to Charlie Young, the director of the Raglan Surfing School. “The old vibe still exists here,” he says. “People still look out for each other.”
Lower pressure systems generated in the Roaring Forties (an area between 40° and 49° south latitude that produces some of the strongest and most consistent swells in the world) sends waves to setups that include the beginner- to intermediate-friendly Ngarunui Beach and the more advanced but absolutely classic Manu Bay. When you aren’t in the water, Young recommends checking the avant-garde music and art scene, Maori crafts stores, and locally sourced restaurants and markets.
When
New Zealand gets almost constant swell, so go in their summer (November to February) and enjoy the subtropical air temperatures. Bring a wetsuit, though: The South Pacific can be chilly at any time of the year.
Learn
Raglan Surfing School: This pioneering surf school in New Zealand also rents wetsuits if you don’t feel like lugging yours.
Stay
Sleeping Lady Lodges overlook the point break at Whale Bay, so you can check the swell from your window every morning.
Eat
“The Raglan Bakery does homemade meat pies, a Kiwi specialty, that are amazing,” says Young. For dinner try a New Zealand specialty, steamed local green-lipped mussels at the Orca Restaurant and Bar, and stick around at the bar for live shows by some of New Zealand’s best bands.
Play
Mountain bike around Mount Kairoi or take a day trip to the Waikato Museum in Hamilton, where you can learn about the mixing of European and Maori cultures that has produced modern New Zealand society.
Local Tip
There are about 4.4 million people in New Zealand. If the crowds at a surf spot get too hectic, just hop in a car and drive down the coast. Surfing lesser known spots is often described as being akin to surfing California before World War II. Read: unspoiled.
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Bukit Peninsula, Bali
Photograph by JS Callahan, tropicalpix/Alamy
Best For: Couples and travelers who want to spend as much time exploring the beautiful, temple-studded hills as they do surfing the world-class surf spots
If you want to rub shoulders with the best surfers in the world while surfing some of the best waves in the world, head to Bali. Unlike its more touristy cousin, Kuta Beach, the Bukit Peninsula is a rural outpost of limestone cliffs, pristine beaches, fearsome reef breaks, and hilltop temples where Indonesian culture still dominates. Beginner and intermediate surfers should stick to beach breaks such as Dreamland. More experienced surfers need to take a crack at two of the most famous waves in the world—Uluwatu and Padang Padang. For Padang Padang, be sure to bring plenty of antiseptic for the occasional run-in with the reef.
When
May to September
Learn
Eat
Traditional Indonesian cafés, or warungs, line the beaches and offer safe, local fair for good prices. If you want to brave the tourist trap of Kuta, pro surfing photographer and expat Jason Childs recommends Made’s Warung for a great cultural hit and real Indonesian food.
Stay
Mick’s Place sits on the cliffs of Bingin Beach overlooking some of the best waves in Bali. According to Childs, it’s also the best value for money in the area. If you get tired of surfing or of watching the surf from your bungalow, you can stretch out at one of their yoga classes.
Play
“A ‘must’ is the Uluwatu Temple,” says Childs. “They hold a nightly Kecak dance at sunset. Watching them dance with the sunset over the ocean as the backdrop is really worth it!”
Local Tip
The preferred mode of transportation for locals and visitors alike is the motorbike. Learning to ride one while holding a surfboard is a right of passage. Also, alcohol is expensive. Buy some duty-free and bring it with you.
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The List: Best Surf Towns
- Byron Bay, Australia
- Florianópolis, Brazil
- Tofino, B.C., Canada
- Nosara, Costa Rica
- Biarritz, France
- Bukit Peninsula, Bali, Indonesia
- Bundoran, Ireland
- Shonan, Japan
- Taghazout, Morocco
- Raglan, New Zealand
- Muizenberg, South Africa
- San Sebastián, Spain
- Encinitas, CA, U.S.
- Santa Cruz, CA, U.S.
- New Smyrna Beach, FL, U.S.
- Hanalei, Kauai, HI, U.S.
- Paia, Maui, HI, U.S.
- Montauk, NY, U.S.
- Wrightsville Beach, NC, U.S.
- La Paloma, Uruguay