- March 6 2011
The quality of the shoes is consistent with what you'd expect from a well-known brand like SCARPA. I haven't had the shoes a long time, but I expect that they will be durable -- not to mention that the soles are quite stiff, so they make take a while to break-in, but the ruggedness is indicative of a true climbing shoe.
- February 18 2011
Excellent Aggressive Shoes
Switched to the Boosters from Evolv's Optimus Primes. I liked how comfortable the Primes were and they performed very well, but I wanted something more aggressive and (hopefully) more durable. My wife has the Rockettes (female version of Boosters) and they have shown almost no wear after 5 or so months, so I decided to go with the Boosters. I ordered and returned 3 pair before I got the right size (40). Because of how stiff these shoes are it's quite difficult to get the right fit. The 40.5 was definitely too big and the 39.5 was definitely too small. I was an 8.5 in the Primes, 39 in Miura VS, 9.5 in 5.10 Team, and I think a 7.5 in Evolv Defy. I have a short, wide foot with low volume heel. My heel has been nearly impossible to fit correctly and it didn't change with this purchase. I will say, however, that the Boosters are probably the best fit so far for my heel, not letting it slip out during heel hooks. I think this might come more from the shoes coming up higher in the back than from it being specifically made for low volume heels. In other words, they won't slip off, but still don't feel tight on my small heel. Durability is great so far. I climb 3 or 4 times per week, indoors and out, and they show no wear at all after almost a month. Haven't started stinking yet either, which is in stark contrast to how quickly my Evolv started to smell. One issue that has been very noticeable is the stickiness of the rubber compared to the Primes. The rubber that Evolv uses is insanely soft, so I found them to slip off holds very rarely. The softness, however, also led to them tearing through at the toe after only 6 months. Conversely, I have noticed some slippage with the Boosters because of their stiffer nature. They are meant to be precise, so whereas the Primes might have been more forgiving of an imprecise foot placement, the Boosters are not. It's a tradeoff and in my opinion, it's worth it. You get increased durability with the Boosters plus a very aggressive shoe and the downside is that you are forced to focus when placing your feet, which is not a bad thing. I would recommend these to anyone looking to go to the next level.