Published: August/September 2009
Inside the Box
Text by Costas Christ

For Ireland, “Peace Through Tourism” is more than a cliché. After the 1998 Belfast Agreement, six counties came together from opposite sides of the war zone to form the nation’s first ecotourism hub. Called Greenbox, the sprawling region is best seen on two wheels. Follow the Kingfisher Cycle Trail, which winds along 300 miles of backcountry roads past remote villages, open meadows, and rolling Atlantic surf. Some two dozen lodges welcome out-of-towners here, but you can’t go wrong with Ard na Breatha Guesthouse & Restaurant, situated in the heart of Greenbox country—and just a 15-minute walk from the pubs of Donegal Town (doubles from $110;